Build Your Dream Breakfast Nook Table: Free Plans from HGTV’s Open Concept!
We’ve been absolutely overwhelmed by the incredible demand for the free plans to the custom round table we crafted for the Nicholson family’s breakfast nook on our pilot episode of Open Concept on HGTV! The excitement and support from all of you have been truly heartwarming, and we couldn’t be more thrilled to finally share these highly requested plans with you today. We’re still eagerly awaiting news from the network regarding a full series order and potential additional air dates for the pilot. Rest assured, as soon as we have any updates, you’ll be the very first to know. Your kind words and encouragement mean the world to us!
Transforming Spaces: The $70 Breakfast Nook Table
One of the most rewarding aspects of this project was demonstrating that a stunning, functional piece of furniture doesn’t have to break the bank. This magnificent round table, designed specifically for the Nicholson’s breakfast nook, was built for an astonishingly low cost of just $70 in lumber! This affordability makes it an ideal DIY project for anyone looking to enhance their home without a hefty investment.
Do you recall the dramatic “before” state of this space? It was originally the family’s main dining area, but it suffered from a significant design flaw: it was entirely closed off and disconnected from both the kitchen and the rest of the home. This created a sense of isolation and made the area feel incredibly dysfunctional, hindering the natural flow and interaction within the house.
Our vision for the Open Concept transformation involved much more than just building a table. We embarked on a major renovation, tearing down the wall that separated the kitchen from this dining area. This pivotal change allowed us to seamlessly integrate the two spaces, converting the old dining room into a charming and highly functional breakfast nook that truly felt like an extension of the kitchen. For a comprehensive look at the stunning before and after photos of the entire house remodel, be sure to click HERE!
Your DIY Journey Starts Here: Simple Tools, Stunning Results
Many aspiring woodworkers might feel intimidated by intricate angle cuts and detailed trim work. However, we’re here to tell you that this round table is surprisingly straightforward to build! Don’t let those details deter you. The essential tools required for this project are minimal and readily available: a miter saw for precise cuts, a Kreg Jig for strong pocket hole joinery, a reliable drill, and a versatile jigsaw for shaping. With these tools and our detailed instructions, you’ll be amazed at what you can accomplish.
As always, we believe in empowering you with the resources you need. That’s why we’re providing free printable plans and a comprehensive step-by-step guide to walk you through every stage of this build. You can easily access and print the detailed plans by clicking HERE, or simply click on the image below to download them directly!
Step-by-Step Guide: Crafting Your Round Pedestal Table
1. Building the Sturdy Tabletop
Our journey begins with the most prominent feature: the tabletop. I started by precisely cutting the individual planks of wood that would form the foundation of our round surface. Once cut, the next crucial step was to drill 3/4-inch pocket holes into the edges of these planks using my trusty Kreg Jig K5. Pocket holes are an incredibly strong and discreet way to join wood pieces, creating a seamless and durable surface. If you’re looking to acquire your own Kreg Jig K5, you can order one HERE. For those new to this indispensable tool, we also have a detailed “How to use a Kreg Jig” video tutorial available HERE.
With the pocket holes drilled, I then firmly attached the planks together, forming a solid rectangular panel. This was done using 1 1/4-inch pocket hole screws, ensuring a strong and stable bond that would withstand years of use.
Now, for the “round” part! To accurately draw a perfect circle on the joined planks, I used a simple yet effective method: I secured a small nail at the very center of the wooden panel. Next, I tied one end of a piece of twine (cut to the desired radius of the table) to the nail and the other end to a pencil. By keeping the twine taut, I was able to smoothly draw a precise, perfectly circular outline onto the wood.
Once the circle was drawn, I carefully used a jigsaw to cut along the traced line, transforming the rectangular panel into our beautiful round tabletop. This tool allows for intricate curves and is perfect for this task.
After the cut, the raw edges needed refinement. I meticulously sanded the entire top surface and the newly cut edges smooth using my Ryobi Corner Cat sander. This crucial step not only creates a professional finish but also ensures a pleasant, splinter-free surface for daily use.
2. Assembling the Robust Table Base
With the tabletop complete, attention shifted to building the robust foundation. I constructed the main base of the table using a combination of wood glue for superior strength and my Airstrike Nailer for quick and secure assembly. If you don’t have a nailer, don’t worry – you can achieve equally strong results using traditional finish nails or wood screws, simply pre-drilling pilot holes to prevent splitting.
As you can see, the basic base structure is straightforward to put together, forming a solid core for the pedestal design. Now, for the intricate details that truly give this table its character – the feet!
3. Adding the Stylish Feet
Creating the table’s distinctive feet requires precise angle cuts. My preferred method is to make the angle cut first. I set the bevel of my miter saw to 45 degrees – this is the top part of the saw that pivots for angled cuts. By cutting the angle first, I ensure consistency and accuracy.
After the initial angle cut, I then measure from the longest point of that angle to make my straight cut. This two-step process helps in achieving perfectly shaped feet pieces.
For attaching the feet, I drilled 1 1/2-inch pocket holes into the straight ends of each foot piece. It’s crucial to ensure these pocket holes are positioned on the surface of the foot that will face upwards when assembled, making them hidden and maintaining a clean look.
Here you can see the table feet, carefully prepared with their pocket holes, ready for assembly.
Next, I cut the small foot pads that will cap the ends of the feet. These add a finished look and help protect the floor. A quick pass with your sander will smooth out any rough edges on these pads.
I then attached a foot pad to the angled end of each foot using both my nailer and wood glue for a secure bond. Pay close attention to the direction the angles are facing to ensure proper orientation. (And yes, even experienced builders make mistakes – you can ignore the pocket hole placement on the very top foot in this image, it was an oops moment!)
Finally, each completed foot was securely attached to the center of each side of the table’s base using the previously drilled pocket holes and screws. This creates a stable and balanced foundation for the table.
Here is the completed table base with all the feet firmly attached, demonstrating the emerging strength and elegance of the design.
I then attached the top pieces of the feet, again ensuring the angle was facing the correct direction, using wood glue and my nailer. As before, if you don’t have a nailer, finish nails or wood screws are perfectly suitable alternatives for this step.
4. The Art of Trim Work: Layer by Layer
Now for my absolute favorite part of the build – the trim! It truly feels like putting together a puzzle, but a very satisfying and achievable one. The trim adds character, depth, and a touch of professional elegance to the table’s pedestal base.
First Layer of Trim (1×6 pieces)
Begin by attaching the first layer of trim, typically 1×6 pieces, around the base. Use both a nailer and wood glue for a strong hold. A helpful tip for this layer: keep your nail holes towards the bottom half of the trim piece. This strategic placement ensures that these nail holes will be completely covered by subsequent layers of trim, resulting in a cleaner, more polished final appearance.
For optimal results and accuracy, make sure to measure and cut each piece of trim as you go. This adaptive approach ensures a perfect fit for every section, accommodating any minor inconsistencies in the base structure.
Continue adding the remaining pieces until the entire first layer of trim is securely attached around the base.
Second Layer of Trim (1×3 pieces)
Moving on, the second layer consists of 1×3 trim pieces. Just like the first layer, diligent measuring and cutting as you build are paramount for a clean, professional finish. This layer adds another dimension to the pedestal’s aesthetics.
Third Layer: Casing Trim
The third layer introduces the casing trim, which offers a more decorative profile. I begin by making my first mitered cut. This involves setting the bottom arm of the miter saw (the part that swings) to 45 degrees. Place the casing against the fence of the saw exactly as it would sit against the base of the table. Make your cut – this piece will be for the right side of the section you’re working on.
Next, hold the freshly cut casing piece up to the table base. Position the angled end precisely where it should sit (the short side touching the corner of the 1×6 trim). Mark the casing for your next cut, indicating the exact length required to bridge the gap.
Return to your miter saw, swing the arm to the opposite side, setting it again at 45 degrees, and make your final cut. This creates the complementary angle needed for a tight, seamless corner joint.
Now, carefully attach this piece of casing to the base using wood glue and nails. It will rest neatly on top of the 1×3 trim, gracefully covering the majority of the 1×6 layer below it, creating a refined transition.
Fourth Layer: Cove Molding
Next comes the delicate cove molding, which adds a beautiful curved detail. I cut this molding using the exact same miter saw technique as the casing. Start by making the first 45-degree miter cut. Observe how the cove molding rests against the fence of the saw in the image – this is critical for achieving the correct profile.
Just like with the casing, place the freshly cut cove molding against the base of the table to accurately mark for the second miter cut. This ensures a snug and perfect fit around the corners.
Swing the miter arm of your saw to the other 45-degree mark and make your final cut for the cove molding piece. Precision here leads to seamless joints.
With both ends perfectly mitered, attach the bottom layer of cove molding using wood glue and finish nails. This delicate piece adds a refined touch to the lower section of the pedestal.
Repeat the same process for the top piece of cove molding. This piece is strategically placed to rest on top of the 1×6 trim, beautifully enhancing the upper edge of the pedestal and adding that extra touch of “pretty” to your custom build.
And there she is, the table base, beautifully trimmed out! Don’t fret if your cuts aren’t absolutely flawless and you notice a few small gaps. That’s where wood filler comes to the rescue! This magical product will seamlessly fill any imperfections, making your project look professionally finished.
Next, carefully flip the table base upside down and repeat the entire trim process on the underside. While doing this, it’s essential to mark the placement for the 2×3 supports, ensuring that the trim rests neatly just under where these supports will be installed. This detail is crucial for the final assembly.
Once all the trim work is complete on both the top and bottom of the base, your table base should look like this. Notice the precisely created 2.5-inch gap, which is specifically designed to accommodate the tabletop supports we’ll add next!
5. Installing the Tabletop Supports
Now, it’s time to prepare the critical table top supports! Using a jigsaw, carefully cut the decorative ends on each of the 2×3 support pieces. These subtle details add an extra touch of craftsmanship to the unseen elements of the table.
Here you can see the supports, all “fancied up” with their elegant decorative ends, ready for the next stage of assembly.
Next, drill pocket holes into each table support. Refer to your detailed plans for the precise placement of these holes, as correct positioning is key for secure attachment to the tabletop and base.
To accurately position the supports, place the finished table top upside down on a clean, protected surface. Then, carefully center the completed table base on top of the inverted tabletop. This ensures that the supports will align perfectly once the table is right-side up.
With the base centered, carefully place each 2×3 support piece between the trim of the base and the tabletop. Mark precisely where each support sits on the tabletop. These marks will guide the attachment process.
Now, attach the supports to the tabletop at the marked locations using pocket hole screws. Ensure that the pocket holes on the supports are facing inwards, towards each other. This orientation allows for a strong, hidden connection when the top is eventually fastened to the base.
6. The Finishing Touches: Stain, Distress, and Protect
Before the final assembly of the tabletop to the base, I stained the table components separately. This approach makes the staining process considerably easier, allowing for thorough coverage without awkward angles. It also simplifies moving the base and tabletop into the house, as they can be transported individually. For this project, I applied one beautiful coat of “Wheat” stain by Rust-Oleum, part of their Varathane brand, which you can typically find at Home Depot. This stain provides a warm, inviting hue that perfectly complements a breakfast nook.
Once the stain was dry to the touch (which usually takes about an hour depending on conditions), I embraced the art of distressing. Using my Corner Cat sander with an 80-grit sanding pad, I lightly distressed the entire piece. This technique subtly wears down the edges and surfaces, giving the table an aged, farmhouse-chic character that adds depth and charm, while also helping to hide any future minor bumps and scratches that naturally occur with everyday use.
To ensure the table’s durability and provide a long-lasting, protective finish, I applied one coat of Triple Thick Polyurethane by Varathane in a satin finish. This product is a personal favorite for a reason – it goes on incredibly thick, providing the equivalent protection of three coats of standard polyurethane in a single application! Its robust finish guards against spills, scratches, and daily wear and tear, making it perfect for a busy breakfast nook.
7. Final Assembly: Bringing It All Together
Once the protective finish had completely dried and cured, it was time for the final, satisfying step: attaching the tabletop to the base. I carefully positioned the tabletop onto the base, aligning the supports. Then, using 3-inch Spax screws, I securely fastened the tabletop to the base. These screws go through the supports and into the top of the base, creating an incredibly strong and stable connection that ensures the table will withstand years of family meals and gatherings.
The Grand Reveal: A Perfect Fit for the Open Concept Kitchen
And there she is! A stunning, custom-built round table that not only perfectly fits the newly transformed breakfast nook but was also constructed for an incredible $70! This project truly embodies the spirit of DIY – creating beautiful, functional pieces that are tailored to your space and budget.
The transformation of the Nicholson’s kitchen and breakfast nook truly brought their vision of an open, airy, and functional living space to life. This table stands as a testament to how thoughtful design and a little DIY effort can dramatically improve a home.
Shop the Look: Design Elements from the Open Concept Nook
Love the cohesive and stylish look of this renovated space? Here’s a breakdown of the key design elements, paints, and decor that tie it all together:
- Paint on Walls: Edgecomb Gray by Benjamin Moore
- Paint on Cabinets: White Dove by Benjamin Moore
- Paint on Trim: White Dove by Benjamin Moore
- Paint on Island: Anonymous by Sherwin Williams
- Countertop: Indian Premium Black (honed) Arizona Tile
- Backsplash: H-Line Cotton (glossy) 3″ x 6″ x 9.5mm Arizona Tile
- Wood Floor Stain: Dark Walnut
- Chandelier: Amazone – Find it HERE
- Pillows: Sourced from At Home
- Sign: Crafted by Susie Harris – Explore her work HERE
- Cutting Boards: Purchased from World Market
Extend the Style: Matching Coffee Table Plans
If you adore the design of this breakfast nook table, you’ll be excited to know that I built a matching coffee table for my own home, extending this beautiful style throughout! You can find the free plans for that complementary coffee table right HERE!
Ready to tackle your next woodworking project? Dive into our extensive collection of free DIY dining table plans – perfect for beginners and seasoned builders alike!