Transforming your home doesn’t have to break the bank. With a little DIY know-how, you can achieve a custom, high-end look on a budget. This comprehensive guide from Shanty2Chic will show you exactly how to case any opening in your home, providing a step-by-step tutorial to elevate your interior design.
It’s been a full year since I moved into my new house, and the journey of making it truly feel like “home” is an ongoing adventure. From building custom furniture to tackling various renovation projects, each update brings us closer to our dream space. My most recent endeavor involved adding stylish casing to all the interior openings – a project that dramatically enhanced the architectural character of my home. When I was originally searching for a new property, I focused on finding a new construction that was move-in ready and conveniently located near my daughter’s school.
My Non-Negotiable Requirements for a New Home
My home search was guided by a specific list of features that were essential for my family and my lifestyle:
- Three-Car Garage: As a dedicated DIY enthusiast, I absolutely needed ample space for my workshop and all my tools.
- Four Bedrooms: This was a strategic choice, not just for current needs but also to ensure strong resale value in the future.
- Three Bathrooms (or 2.5 as a compromise): I strongly preferred a dedicated guest bathroom for convenience and privacy.
- Minimum One Acre Lot: My previous home sat on three-quarters of an acre, and I was looking to “upsize” my outdoor space, desiring more distance and privacy from neighboring properties.
- Open Floor Plan: A flowing, interconnected living space was crucial for modern living and entertaining.
- Prime Location: Easy access to my daughter’s school and a reasonable commute to the city were top priorities.
The Serendipitous Turn in My House Hunt
Finding a home that checked all these boxes while staying within my budget proved to be quite a challenge. I diligently searched for approximately two months, encountering numerous properties that fell short in one or more areas. Then, quite by accident, I stumbled upon the house that would become our new home. Its proximity to my daughter’s school and local shopping was perfect. The truly fortunate part? The builder had incorrectly listed it on the MLS!
It was advertised as a 2-car garage on 1.4 acres. To my delight, a closer inspection revealed it actually boasted over 2 acres of land and a spacious three-car garage, encompassing every single item on my “must-have” list. After a walkthrough with a friend, I instantly knew this was the perfect home for us. Fearing that the MLS listing would be corrected or that another astute buyer would discover its true value, I made an offer immediately. My offer was accepted, and I felt like I had truly hit the jackpot – this was the only property within my desired location and budget that met all my criteria, arguably underpriced given its actual specifications.
The Spark for This Casing Project
While the home fulfilled my major requirements, I understood that certain finish details might not align perfectly with my aesthetic preferences. These were the exact items I envisioned upgrading myself, turning a good house into *our* dream home. This philosophy directly led me to my most recent project: adding elegant casing to the windows and door openings throughout the house.
Our home features a contemporary open-concept floor plan, meaning many doorway openings were left uncased, creating a continuous flow between the living room, dining room, and kitchen. While functional, these raw openings lacked the polished, finished look I desired. Opting for cased windows and doorways through a builder would have been an exorbitantly priced upgrade. Knowing how simple and cost-effective this DIY project could be, I was determined to tackle it myself.
The primary hurdle for this project was the prevalence of rounded corners. I’ve always disliked rounded corners because they complicate traditional trim installations. My plan was to frame these openings to effectively cover the rounded edges and integrate the new casing seamlessly with the existing baseboards. Honestly, I was a bit apprehensive about how everything would come together, especially at those tricky transitions. However, I’m thrilled to report that it all worked out beautifully, and I absolutely adore the final results!
I began with the two largest openings in my entryway. These are the first architectural features visitors see upon entering my home, making them ideal candidates for a dramatic transformation. My vision was a modern yet substantial trim style – something that would feel “beefy” and custom. After finalizing my design and planning, it was time to get to work!
For a dynamic visual overview of the entire process, you can watch our Instagram Reel here!
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Now, let’s dive into the detailed steps of creating beautiful cased openings!
Table of Contents
How to Create a Cased Opening
Casing an opening can seem daunting, but with the right preparation and tools, it’s a rewarding DIY project that significantly elevates your home’s interior. This tutorial will walk you through each stage, from framing to the final paint, ensuring a professional and durable finish.
Materials: Tools & Supplies
Important Note on Measurements: Every home opening is unique. The dimensions and quantities of materials listed below are based on my specific opening. Before purchasing, meticulously measure your own openings to adjust your supply list accordingly. Remember that for a walkthrough opening, you will need to double many of your boards to case both sides.
Essential Tools for This Project:
- Miter Saw: Crucial for making precise, angled cuts for trim and framing.
- Drill: For pre-drilling holes and driving screws where necessary.
- Finish Nailer: Essential for securely attaching casing with minimal visible nail heads.
- Brad Nailer: (Optional but recommended) Ideal for smaller trim pieces and providing a cleaner finish than larger nails.
- Pin Nailer: (Optional) For the most delicate trim work where brad nails might be too large.
- Sander: Vital for achieving a smooth, professional finish on your wood surfaces before painting.
- 18-Volt Caulk Gun: (Optional) Provides consistent, effortless caulking, especially useful for larger projects.
- Table Saw: Necessary for ripping wider boards down to custom sizes to perfectly fit your opening’s depth.
Supplies You’ll Need:
- 1x4x8 Primed MDF: (For vertical face frame) Primed MDF is excellent for trim due to its stability and smooth finish, ready for paint.
- 1x6x8 Primed MDF: (For header) Provides a substantial and modern look for the top of your opening.
- 1x8x8 Primed MDF: (For inside casing) Used for the interior lining of the opening, which helps cover rounded corners.
- 1x2x8 Primed MDF: (For header trim) Adds depth and a layered look to your header.
- 2 1/2″ Finish Nails: For strong structural connections.
- 1 1/4″ Brad Nails: (Optional) For less visible, delicate attachments.
- 1″ Pin Nails: (Optional) For the smallest trim pieces, ensuring minimal hole filling.
- Liquid Nails (Construction Adhesive): Provides a powerful, long-lasting bond between wood and drywall, minimizing nail reliance.
- Wood Filler: Essential for concealing nail holes and minor imperfections, creating a flawless surface.
- Caulk: Seals gaps between trim and walls, ensuring a professional, seamless appearance and preventing dust accumulation.
- Wood Glue: For strengthening mitered joints and other wood-to-wood connections.
- Paint: To match your existing trim or create a fresh new look.
Framing the Inside of the Opening
The first step in creating a beautifully cased opening is to establish a solid, square frame on the inside. This foundational layer is crucial, especially when dealing with rounded drywall corners, as it provides a flat surface for your decorative casing.
Step 1: Installing the Top Board
Begin by accurately measuring the width of your opening. Then, measure the depth of the header from one side to the other. You’ll use these measurements to prepare your 1×8 boards. My table saw was invaluable for ripping these 1×8 boards down to the precise depth needed to fit snugly within the opening. Once cut, apply a generous bead of liquid nails to the back surface of the board. This adhesive provides a strong bond, helping to secure the board firmly in place and prevent movement over time.
Carefully position the prepared board on the underside of the header, ensuring it’s centered and flush. Secure it using 2 1/2″ 16-gauge finish nails. These nails provide robust holding power while leaving small holes that are easy to fill later, ensuring a smooth finish.
Step 2: Attaching the Vertical Side Boards
Next, measure and cut your vertical frame boards to the appropriate length, ensuring they fit precisely between the newly installed top board and the existing base trim. As with the top board, apply liquid nails to the backside of these vertical pieces. This adhesive is particularly helpful in creating a secure bond to the drywall, preventing any bowing or movement.
Attach the vertical boards to the inside of the opening using 2 1/2″ 16-gauge finish nails. It’s crucial that these boards are flush with both the top board you just installed and the existing base trim. This alignment ensures a perfectly square and straight interior frame, which is essential for the subsequent casing layers and a professional final look.
Hiding the Rounded Corners at the Base
One of the trickiest parts of updating an older home or a new build with basic finishes can be dealing with rounded drywall corners, especially where baseboards meet door openings. This step outlines a clever solution to achieve a crisp, squared-off look.
Step 3: Creating a Square Corner Piece
When starting this project, the existing base molding around the rounded corners was a major design hurdle. It wasn’t until I reached this specific point that I could truly visualize and strategize a solution. Observing the pre-installed base molding wrapped around the curves helped me understand the exact challenge.
I temporarily set my vertical side trim piece in place to assess the overhang. It became clear that by adding a small, custom-cut corner molding piece, I could create the illusion of a continuous, square base molding seamlessly wrapping around the opening. This simple trick effectively camouflaged the rounded drywall beneath.
To execute this, I measured and cut a new corner piece, ensuring its dimensions matched the visible portion of the original corner piece. I then flipped it, applied wood glue, and attached it with 1 1/4″ brad nails. This created a solid, square edge where the rounded corner once was.
This clever addition gave the appearance of a full trim block, providing a perfect squared foundation for the main casing. With this challenge resolved, I was ready to move on to the front trim pieces.
Trimming the Casing: Adding the Face Frame
With the interior frame squared off, it’s time to add the visible face frame, which truly defines the aesthetic of your cased opening. This step involves carefully measuring and attaching the vertical trim pieces to create a pleasing “reveal.”
Step 4: Installing the Vertical Face Frame Pieces
For a sophisticated, layered look, I aimed for a 1/2″ reveal of the inside frame boards. To achieve this, I marked 1/2″ from the bottom edge of the top, inside frame board and 1/2″ from the inside edge of the vertical frame boards. Then, I measured the exact length required for each vertical face frame piece, running from the top of the baseboard up to the 1/2″ mark on the top frame board.
Once cut, I attached these vertical trim boards to the wall, carefully aligning them flush with the 1/2″ marks I made on both the vertical and top inside frame boards. This precision creates that desired 1/2″ reveal, adding depth and visual interest to the opening.
For maximum stability and longevity, I secured these boards with both liquid nails construction adhesive and 2 1/2″ framing nails. The adhesive provides a continuous bond to the wall, while the nails hold the boards firmly in place as the adhesive cures. Remember, for a walkthrough opening, you’ll need to repeat these steps on the opposite side to achieve a consistent, finished look throughout.
Attaching the Header: The Crown of Your Opening
The header is the focal point of your cased opening, providing a strong visual element that draws the eye upward. My goal was a substantial, “beefy” header that would complement the modern trim style.
Step 5: Constructing the Header Assembly
After successfully installing the side trim, it was time to focus on the header. To achieve the desired substantial look, I designed a multi-piece header using a 1×6 board (serving as the main body) and two 1×2 boards (to create a layered trim effect).
First, I accurately measured the exact width between the outer edges of the installed vertical face trim pieces. This measurement determined the length of the 1×6 board, ensuring it fit perfectly across the top of the opening.
Next, I cut the two 1×2 pieces. For a decorative overhang, I cut each 1×2 piece 2 inches longer than the 1×6 board. This allows for a 1-inch overhang on each side of the main header piece, adding visual depth and dimension.
To assemble the header, I flipped the 1×6 board onto its face. I then attached one of the 1×2 boards to an edge of the 1×6, ensuring their backs were flush. This was secured with 1 1/4″ brad nails and a strong wood glue, which reinforces the joint and prevents separation.
I then flipped the entire header assembly over and attached the second 1×2 board to the opposite edge of the 1×6, using the same method. The key is to ensure that the backs of both 1×2 boards are perfectly flush with the back of the 1×6 board. This creates a recess at the front, adding to the “beefy” appearance.
This completed header assembly showcases the layered effect, providing a custom and substantial look to the top of your cased opening.
Step 6: Installing the Assembled Header
To install the finished header, apply a generous amount of liquid nails to the back surfaces of the boards that will contact the wall. Carefully lift and position the header directly on top of the vertical face frame boards.
This is where the earlier 1/2″ reveal mark on the top inside frame board becomes crucial. Ensure the header aligns perfectly with this mark, maintaining the consistent reveal you established earlier.
Finally, secure the header to the wall using 2 1/2″ framing nails. Drive these nails into the wall studs for maximum strength and stability. If studs aren’t present where you need them, consider using appropriate drywall anchors for added security.
Installing the Bottom Trim Blocks: The Finishing Touch at the Base
The base trim blocks are where all the elements of your casing come together, particularly at those once-challenging rounded corners. This step involves precise miter cuts and careful assembly to achieve a seamlessly integrated look with your existing baseboards.
Step 7: Crafting the Mitered Trim Blocks
Before installing the bottom trim blocks, I took the opportunity to fill any existing nail holes, minor gaps, or gashes on the MDF boards with wood filler. Allowing the filler to dry thoroughly at this stage makes for a much easier and cleaner sanding process later on.
Once dry, I sanded the wood filler smooth and began measuring for the intricate miter cuts required for the base of the casing. These pieces will seamlessly overlap the existing baseboards and the corner pieces I added earlier. I cut one end of the front corner piece to a precise 45° angle. The straight edge of this piece was marked to extend 3/4″ over the front trim piece, creating a subtle, custom ledge.
After measuring and cutting the front and back bottom trim pieces, I measured for the longer middle bottom piece. This central piece requires both ends to be cut at 45° angles to create a clean, continuous corner when joined with the adjacent pieces.
Here you can see all the precisely cut individual pieces that form this custom bottom trim block. The accuracy of these cuts is essential for a professional finish.
To assemble the trim block, I applied wood glue to all the mitered edges. This strengthens the joints significantly, making the assembled piece robust and preventing any future separation.
Then, I used 1″ pin nails to carefully attach the pieces together. Pin nails are ideal here because they leave tiny holes that are almost invisible after filling, ensuring a smooth, finished look (though brad nails can also be used if a pin nailer isn’t available).
This image shows the fully assembled trim block, ready for installation onto the opening. The chunky, layered look is already beginning to take shape.
Before final attachment, I applied liquid nails to the inner surface of the trim block where it would contact the base of the casing and the wall. This ensures a strong, lasting hold.
Finally, I attached the assembled trim block to the base of the casing using 1 1/4″ brad nails. At this point, the entire structure started to come together beautifully, achieving that robust, custom look I envisioned. I was already loving the chunky, bespoke appearance!
The Finish: Achieving a Flawless, Professional Look
The final steps are crucial for transforming your newly cased opening from a raw wood project into a seamless, professionally finished architectural detail. Don’t underestimate the power of proper finishing!
Step 7: Expertly Filling Nail Holes
Once all the casing was securely in place, the next task was to meticulously fill every exposed nail hole with high-quality wood filler. Apply the filler slightly proud of the surface to allow for sanding. Allow ample time for the wood filler to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Patience here prevents unsightly depressions or cracks after painting.
Step 8: Thorough Sanding for a Silky Smooth Surface
When the wood filler was thoroughly dry, I sanded all surfaces, including the filled holes and the entire trim, until everything was perfectly smooth. This is a step where you absolutely shouldn’t rush. Any imperfections or rough spots that are visible now will be significantly exaggerated once paint is applied. A thorough sanding ensures a truly professional, furniture-like finish.
Step 9: Seamless Caulking for a Polished Look
Caulking is the secret to a truly custom, built-in appearance. I meticulously caulked every single joint and seam in the casing, as well as along the outside edges where the face frame met the wall. This step conceals any minor gaps and creates a smooth, continuous transition between the trim and your existing walls.
Step 10: Painting for a Durable and Beautiful Finish
With all surfaces prepped, sanded, and caulked, I carefully taped off the surrounding walls and flooring to protect them from paint. This crucial step ensures crisp, clean lines and saves significant cleanup time.
I applied two coats of our absolute favorite paint: Valspar Cabinet and Furniture Paint, tinted to “Ultra White” by Sherwin Williams. This specific paint perfectly matches the existing trim and doors throughout my home. This paint is truly remarkable – it offers incredible durability and adhesion, allowing you to paint over virtually any oil or water-based paint without the need for sanding beforehand. It’s also self-leveling, which means it flows out beautifully, leaving a wonderfully smooth and professional finish after the second coat.
- You can find the Valspar Cabinet and Furniture Paint here.
And just like that, the transformation was complete!
Here is a reminder of the opening *before* the installation of the beautiful, custom casing.
And here she is *after* the easy yet impactful upgrade! The new cased opening adds so much character and depth to this space, instantly making it feel more refined and welcoming. It’s truly amazing how a simple trim detail can completely change the atmosphere of a room.
Here’s another ‘before’ shot, this time showcasing the opening leading into my dining room, prior to its makeover.
And the stunning ‘after’ photo of the dining room casing, demonstrating how the new trim creates a more defined and elegant transition.
Just one more ‘before’ picture, highlighting the raw state of another doorway.
The incredible ‘after’ transformation!
I absolutely adore how these new cased openings make my home feel! The added architectural detail brings a sense of sophistication and warmth that was previously missing. I’m especially pleased that I started with the two largest and most challenging openings. With these successfully completed, I now have four smaller openings left to tackle, and then I’ll move on to adding custom casing to all the windows, further unifying the home’s aesthetic.
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